Ermoupoli

Ermoupoli is the capital of Syros and indeed of the whole of the Cyclades. Initially all that was here was the defensively situated village of Ano Syros but during the War Of Independence in the early 1800's a new town grew up, populated by refugees from other islands. This town became Ermoupoli, and it was to become one of the most important and prosperous towns of post-independence Greece. Though it's importance nationally has waned somewhat, it is still locally important, a centre for commerce and local government, a major ferry hub and a city with an awful lot to offer the visitor.

The first thing that strikes you about Ermoupoli as you approach it is the way it straddles the two hills, each topped by a large, imposing church. The one to the left is the old settlement of Ano Syros, topped by the Roman Catholic Cathedral Of St. George. The one to the right is the newer rival, the Greek Orthodox area of Vrondato with it's Church Of The Anastasis (Resurrection). Together they make an imposing and rather beautiful sight, the colourful, largely cuboid houses staggering up the hillsides, linked by steep streets of marble steps. The latter of these two churches (The Anastasis) dominates your view from almost everywhere in central Ermoupoli. Whenever you glance up it seems to be there, sometimes looking like it's perched on top of other buildings.

If you decide to visit Vrondato (and you should, if only for the views back down) there are at least 414 steps from the centre of Ermoupoli up to the Church Of The Anastasis. The streets and houses on the way up are pretty, if quite modern, and the area has a very friendly "lived in" feel. While you make the trek up, imagine yourself as an elderly person living half way up this hill and having to go shopping in the heat of the day... We passed an old lady (clad all in black, naturally) who was having to pause on each and every step for breath before taking the next upward step. It can't be an easy life, even in such beautiful surroundings.

The other hilltop settlement, Anos Syros, dominates the skyline less due to being at the western end of the town, away from the main centre. It's at least as many steps up to Ano Syros as it is up to Vrondato, but it's a journey worth making. Ano Syros is prettier and architecturally more interesting and offers even better views! It's no less challenging for the old ladies of Syros who need to get their shopping in though!

Back down in the main part of town the focal point is the main square, Miaoulis Square, with its imposing and elegant Town Hall, reputedly the largest in Greece. Fairly quiet during the day, apart from the occasional shoppers or walkers who cross it on their way from here to there, it comes alive at night. People turn out in their droves to walk up and down the square or drink in the bars and cafes that surround it, while children play happily in the large open space that the square provides.

The buildings along the side of the square opposite the town hall are beautiful, lovely stone-built affairs with arcaded galleries running along the bottom, mostly occupied by cafes. We breakfasted here two of the three mornings that we were on Syros at a cafe called Cotton Fresh.

Elsewhere in central Ermoupoli there are street upon street of elegant buildings with fine stonework and pastel paintwork. Some of these are shopping streets, some commercial and some residential. No matter how good or bad the state of repair of the buildings, the charm and beauty of them just shines through. I don't know how much recent restoration has gone on in Ermoupoli, but there is plenty going on at the moment. I think Ermoupoli's (and Syros's) "secret" is out.

The elegance tails off the further up hill from the centre you get, but that doesn't mean there's a loss of charm. We never went anywhere in Ermoupoli that wasn't at the very least "pretty" and often simply stunning.

Probably the most stunning area is Vaporia, where the wealthy sea captains and shipping magnates of the past built their mansions. This includes an area that I dubbed "Little Venice", though I've not heard anyone else give it this name, where the sea laps right up to the lower floors of the multi-story mansions built along there. I imagine that there was direct access from the sea to the cellars of those houses in the past.

Ermoupoli has loads to offer in terms of shopping, though most of it is "everyday" shopping rather than anything aimed at the tourist. There are obvious exceptions, especially along the seafront where Loukoumi shops abound, but in the backstreets are clothing, food, jewelery and electrical shops of a style you'd expect to find in any major city. Oh, and pet shops. We saw more pet shops here than everywhere else we've been put together! One of the streets that leads from the seafront to the main square is a kind of "market street", primarily occupied by fruit & veg, butchers and fishmongers, with bakers and cafes thrown in for good measure. It's thronging from early in the morning till just after mid day.

Other streets are narrow, pedestrian havens crammed from wall to wall by outdoor tavernas. It was while walking down these on our first day that we noticed the distinct lack of English on the menu boards outside of these tavernas. Not a major problem, as English translations are always given on the table menues.

Ermoupoli's waterfront is huge, stretching for several km from the new jetty  at the eastern harbour entrance right round to the shipyards at the western end of town. It's lined by hotels, some with waterside views to both front an rear (harbour to the front, sea to the rear), cafes, bars and tavernas, most of which have seating inside, outside on the pavement and over the road by the water, so there's no shortage of choice of places to sit! Our favourite is always by the water, with an unobstructed view of the ferry comings-and-goings!

Further on, towards the main ferry stop, waterside seating peters out, the tavernas begin to look a bit more down market and stand shoulder to shoulder with ticket offices and banks, and the only seating is outside by the road. Don't be put off - we had one of our finest meals in one such place.

The harbour is a popular port of call for cruise ships and a major ferry destination.

As well as the ferries that call in here on their way to and from the mainland, NEL seem to run a couple of ferries (Aeolos Kenteris II and Aqua Jewel) around the Cyclades based out of Syros, rather than the mainland. Both ferries overnighted at Ermoupoli a couple of times while we were there. Kenteris is my favourite ferry (at the moment!).

The western most edge of town is occupied by the shipyards. One of our guide books runs this down, saying your first view of Ermpoupoli is a disappointing one, as you see the shipyard. I beg to differ, I think that the working shipyards add do the overall appeal of the place, in much the same way as those of Valletta do to that city. The sea is an important part of island life, and it's good to see all aspects of it being embraced.

Like all Greek islands there are dozens and dozens of churches on Syros and those in Ermoupoli all seem to be on a rather grand scale. From those crowning the twin hilltops above Ermoupoli, to St Nicholas in Vaporia, the Cathedral Of The Metamorphosis and Agios Dimitrios, who's bell marks the arrival of every ship into Syros harbour, they all appear to be immense! There are, of course, other smaller churches tucked away down side streets, and especially up in Ano Syros.

Ermoupoli is probably our favourite island town/village. It has absolutely everything you need as both a visitor and an inhabitant, and has everything that we in particular love (people, architecture, history, water, ferries, cafes, bars and, above all, just such a lovely feel), in abundance!